Learning Lessons Along the Way

I just read my last blog and was remembering the night before last.  That storm was amazing and it precluded the one to follow which brought winds shifting from a pleasant, warm southerly to a hard driving northeasterly.  This happened somewhere around 11pm when we were well into dreamland.  It was about that time that I woke, not sure why, and looked out the port thinking "hmm, looks normal" and put my head back down.  Another 30 seconds brought a big "thunk" and I jumped up the companionway to find us broadside to the wonderful little bird sanctuary we HAD been anchored off of.  Apparently with the wind shift, our anchor had either dragged or given up the fight and let loose altogether and we quickly and efficiently drifted right onto the rocky edge of this habitat!

Now anyone that knows me can imagine that I just stayed calm, cool and collected; reviewed the situation and had it at hand in no time . . . YEAH RIGHT!  Okay, so I kind of started freaking out - not entirely, but definitely in a way that I thought appropriate for the situation.  Rob's great in these times - he really DOES stay cool and thinks really clearly.  Thank heavens I'm at least able to follow directions!  Anyway, we tried to back out of where we were with no success and I got on the radio and sent for SeaTow (our saviors!).

Steve, the area supervisor, was on his boat quickly after our call and another boat followed him shortly thereafter.  They arrived and we tied our bow to his stern and within about 30 seconds, we were off and RACING out to open water at probably about 12-15 knots.  What a ride . . . sailboats just don't GO that fast!   We set anchor once again and cast Sea Tow's lines back to them . . . but not so fast, my readers . . . to find that they were somehow caught below Moonshadow's hull.  This brought on a whole new form of excitement when Nick on boat #2 got out the snorkel and fins and jumped overboard with knife in hand (picture big guy with big belly putting mask on while holding open switchblade - ugh) to try to remedy the problem.  Apparently the line caught in our prop while we were setting the anchor.  We really were in need of the extra excitement, right?

I didn't sleep much that night wondering if the anchor would get creative again so we didn't get going so early the next day.   It took me some time to clear my head but we did manage to pull it together and get back on our way around 9 the next day.  And what a day it was!  The winds from the north/northeast were perfect for our almost westerly travel and we raised the sails and headed out of the protected ICW channel (and the crab traps) into the Hawk Channel just outside the chain of Keys.  And the winds blew and Moonshadow SAILED!  What a glorious day!  We were whipping along for a good part of the day between 7 and 8 knots which for our boat is a great speed.  I finally got to feel a real day of sailing and it was a treat!  The sun was shining although the temp was cool and we sailed the entire day all the way to our next anchorage just before Key West.
 

Now that last anchorage was not one that was in our anchorage guide and I was determined that we would only anchor in those that were from now on.  So we headed up Boca Chica Channel to the Stock Island anchorage from Skipper Bob's book.  You can sense a story coming, right?  And I'm thinking, whew, this should be an easy night . . . as we turn "port after mark G5B" per good 'ole Bob.  That's just about when we slid to an unexpected halt . . . aground again!  REALLY?!!!?!!!  And I stayed calm, cool and collected (right) . . . . . . good heavens!  Can this be real?  And all of those wonderful thoughts and feelings came rushing in - like "I want to go home" and "are we doomed" came to mind!

With the tide running out and our attempts to release ourselves failing . . . we call Sea Tow again.  Do you realize what this feels like?!  I mean, really, does this happen to other people?!  And if you know anything about some of our previous sailing history from 20 years ago . . . is this just how it is for us?!  But SeaTow came and the guy, Steven, was just great and had us off the one spot of muck in the entire area without more than a quick tug.   Ah, the joys of power.  Anyway, Steven came below and we made margaritas and had a laugh or two before he headed out to more pleasurable endeavors.

 And we slept and we rose and we left the anchorage and we motored our last leg into Key West . . . and we MADE IT!  We actually MADE IT!  Even with more challenges in the past three weeks than even I would have imagined, we stuck with this thing and we worked through the problems and we celebrated the successes and we MADE IT!  So it's just after midnight here and we've been anchored for over 12 hours in the same place and after a day of wandering the streets of Key West and an evening aboard our floating home, all of the challenges of the weeks behind seem like distant memories - and life is righteous and good.

Another Day on Moonshadow

note - site causing lots of trouble tonight - some great pics won't load . . . will have to try another time (but you're missing some really good ones!)

So I spent most of the night worrying about what the next few days would bring.  I really MUST learn to let things go!  We went to bed early again - the sailor's schedule is setting in - and after very little sleep, I was up before the sun and we pulled up the anchor before 7. 

I don't know why I get so worked up!  We had a great day again today.  Right when we pulled the anchor and headed into our first channel, a family of dolphins chose our boat to play in the bow wake.  Rob wasn't exactly thrilled that I jumped out of the cockpit, throwing the boat on autopilot while I came up and looked.  Of course, we WERE heading into a marked and curving channel that the autopilot wouldn't allow for . . . but REALLY - a family of dolphins!  So amazing, nature!  The water was so clear you could see them all below the surface and they sure were having a great time playing in the wake.  Great way to start the day!

We were able to set the sails and make good progress but then not far into the day, the channel started filling up with crab traps.  I'm telling you - they were EVERYWHERE.  It's not like there isn't enough room throughout the keys to set these darn things without putting them directly in the ICW channel . . . and it meant no autopilot and the engine on because we spent literally hours (maybe 4?) dodging them every 30 seconds or so.  Exhausting!

But in the end, it was a great day - we made 55 miles today which I don't think either of us thought possible or expected.  We're anchored between the Fanny Keys behind Marathon.  We have only 40 miles to go to get to Key West but will probably anchor a bit before that tomorrow to assure arriving in Key West during the morning with plenty of time to get a good anchorage and get settled.

Tonight after we anchored, we started doing the odd jobs that add up throughout the day and the sun started to sink near the horizon.  There appeared to be some kind of storm brewing and I mentioned it to Rob.  The sunset was absolutely amazing with the dark clouds hanging over the horizon and it stay colorful and changing for 45 minutes!  Right in the middle of this amazing sunset, that squall line decided to move right over us and we were blasted with high winds and driving rain for maybe 5-10 minutes.  It was crazy!   So we got a good shower and lots of the salt on the boat finally was washed away and then we were treated to the continued sunset!

We had a delicious dinner of pasta with grilled veggies and feta cheese while watching a flock of hundreds of pelicans returning "home" to this spit of land we're anchored off of. Great time to retire early for another exciting day tomorrow!

On the "Road" Again

This morning's sunrise

I did go to bed early - 8:15 to be exact - so it wasn't difficult to be ready to roll before the sun broke the horizon.  We were off the mooring before 7am and back on the intercoastal well before 8.  Without any looming troubles, we were able to raise the main on the way out and quickly had the genoa in place once we were in the channel.  The engine was cut and then we were SAILING!  It's hard to believe we're three weeks into this adventure and had not managed to sail once without the engine banging along with us.  So when we cut the engine, the feeling was even better than was remembered or expected.  The winds were favorable, Biscayne Bay was wide open and we were off!  What a gorgeous day with sun and a 10 - 15 knot breeze in our corner.


It didn't take Rob long to pick his project for the day and he busied himself with polishing all of the stainless around the boat.  I donned my bathing suit, grabbed my book, studied the charts, kept us on course and otherwise occupied myself without any particular intent.  GLORIOUS!  For the record, if you like a well written enjoyable read about sailing, try An Embarrassment of Mangoes - a total delight.

The day passed without any catastrophes, surprises or even anything much to write about, but just being able to sail most of the day is worth firing up the computer for.  We even went 5 miles further than we had planned and are safely anchored behind the John Pennecamp Park on Key Largo just off the ICW and ready to hop back on board in the morning. 

Anchoring was uneventful as well and we had a glass of wine and wound down after a day of winding down!  Rob got a kick out of a passing boat asking what the propeller on the back of the boat was for . . . yup, that would be the wind generator.  Had to laugh.  The moon rose a tiny sliver in the sky with some bright planet as an accompaniment and the sun set in its usual glory.


With a simple dinner of sweet potatoes and an omelet for Rob (sad, isn't it?), we're sitting recalling the day and preparing for a lively round of cribbage where I plan on holding my record of winning every game we play!  Here's to a successful day of cruising . . . I'm ready for more of this!

Searching for Dave and Jessica!

Quick note - our Christmas Eve comrades, Dave and Jessica aboard Kiandra . . . HELP!  I can't find your contact info nor your blog!  Shoot me a note via email, okay?  So much for boat cards!  How did I lose this?!

Merry Christmas!

 Well, here it is - my all time favorite holiday.  Normally I would have spent the last 10 days sorting out the thousands of cookies I would have baked over the past 10 weeks.  For as long as I can remember, each year on my birthday in October, I would start baking Christmas cookies.  The routine would include making about 10 - 12 dozen each of somewhere between 20 and 25 types of cookies.  Come gift-giving time I would lay them all out all over the kitchen and beyond and start making plates, tins, boxes and more to give to friends and send to family all over the country (including my brother in Alaska).

Christmas has always been a favorite.  My mom started giving me Christmas ornaments from all around the world so many years ago - I've got hundreds of what I think are the most special ornaments you can find.  I've got Santas and angels and pagodas and dough ornaments from Guatemala to India and beyond.  I've got felt ones my aunt made and milkweed pod ones my grandmother made.  I've got lots that I myself made as gifts over the years as well.  The tradition in our family is to put the tree up the day after Thanksgiving and decorate it while watching Christmas movies that evening, an activity that ranks in my absolute top ten favorites.

I love decorating all over the house and staring at lights for hours at the end of the day.  I love filling stockings and staying up to all hours organizing the gifts under the tree for the opening ritual in the morning.  When the boys were small, it was hard to get Jacob to make it to 5am before he'd come bouncing in the room ready to drag us to the tree for the big event.  And of course the rest of the day was spent with the kids playing nonstop with their new goodies while I spent the day doing one of my other favorite past-times, cooking.

My boys and their girls Xmas 2010

I knew it would be hard being away from my boys.  I know, they're 26 and 31 and you'd think I'd be over it but we've always been together with very few exceptions.  Rob's folks have spent the holidays with us as well for countless years and with Rob's dad passing two years ago and his Mom making the move back "home" to the Buffalo area where 21 family members reside . . . even more was missing.    So being just the two of us here, I find not only that I miss my boys, my inlaws, favorite parties, my decorations and more but that I've been remiss in not making sure to spend Christmas with my own mom and I'm missing her too.

The shadows are JELLYFISH!  

Okay - so let's backtrack . . . in the last few days we made our way safely in much better conditions down the coast and are officially in the keys at Coconut Grove in Biscayne Bay.  We've had a couple of beautiful sunny and warm days and the town is cute and welcoming.  We met up with two boats that we originally met on Lake Sylvia that both found their way here and we spent a fun Christmas eve with Dave and Jessica from Canada (s/v Kiandra) aboard Moonshadow. 

Sipping Christmas Cocktails

We gathered apps and beverages and enjoyed stories and finally watched a Christmas Eve tradition - Scrooged - together.  I woke up to texts arriving one after another and then calls from the boys and my Mom and sister in New Orleans.   Finally, at noon, the boys set up Skype on the big screen and they opened their presents with us long distance.

So why am I feeling so blue?!   I guess this is all part of the experience, the adventure as we keep calling it.   And it's only this year . . . the "shake down", the "first run" . . . that will help determine how to best avoid the pitfalls next time.   There will certainly be a better plan for Christmas next year!!    So I'm shakin' it all off, throwing back my shoulders and taking a deep breath . . . and then I'm going to bed early to put this one behind me and get ready for whatever this adventure seeks to bring tomorrow as we begin our trek toward Key West. 

Merry Christmas, my family and friends.  You can be assured that love and good wishes have been coming your way this day from Moonshadow and me.

Joy in the Mundane

Yesterday I did laundry.  Yup, laundry.  Now when was the last time you had to take dirty laundry to a laudromat?  Now add to that, that you've got sea salt sodden clothes of two weeks to load in a dinghy, travel 20 minutes up a river, haul up a three rung ladder and walk 1/4 mile to get to the machines?   Bet it's been a while!  Funny, though, I got just a little thrill from it all. 

Getting ahead of myself - it's finished!

Tuesday night when all of the supplies were in hand, we began work on the final big installation project that was planned.  We laid out the pieces of the wind generator on the deck until it got dark and we started losing parts.  Wednesday morning we got right to it thinking we would be done by early afternoon and then prepare to get under way toward the keys on Thursday.  We were excited when we got the "tower kit" installed requiring a 9 foot high pole be attached to/through the deck with two 8 foot poles coming out as "legs" and also being attached.  This was no easy feat so we felt pretty good about things.  Rob continued with the next stage of the project which was wiring this contraption from one side and part of the boat to all others.  Batteries to batteries to control panel to generator on the deck . . . you at this point have to be impressed that we're even doing a project like this while at anchor in Fort Lauderdale with no outside power sources, etc. 


I went and did laundry at this point.  I took my book and put on walking shoes and Rob helped me haul the laundry up to the dock . . . and then I was blissfully on my own for the next two hours.  I can't explain how this happened but I just APPRECIATED doing laundry.  Go figure - unexpected and unexplainable for sure, but it just WAS.   I walked the beach for an hour, read my book and took my time enjoying the smell of clean clothes in the dryer.  Huh, guess that's what laundromats do for you!

Can you see the halo over the place?

When Rob came back to get me, I was all ready to hear that the wiring was ready and we'd be hauling this 40 pound contraption up on a 9 foot pole, all ready start making power for us to consume. . . ah, NO.  So things didn't go so well while I was gone.  Much more wiring was required than planned and Rob even managed to try to take off part of his finger with a drill.  Leaving on Thursday was put on hold and another blissful walk to West Marine was pursued.

Joseph, Bartender Extraordinaire

We left as the sun was slowly dropping near the horizon and made it back to our little dinghy dock at Southport Raw Bar just in time to catch the end of happy hour.  With a pitcher of beer and fresh steamed shrimp, it didn't seem so bad spending one more day.

This morning brought the warmest weather yet and the trepidation of the final stages of our project.  We didn't waste any time and wrangled this monster together - all the while communicating perfectly and calmly to each other.  If you believe that, you don't know Rob and I!!!  But we did it and we survived and it works and we were really pleased with each other and ourselves.  SUCCESS at anchor!  We finally were able to put the boat back together to restore it to something less than a work site and jumped in the dinghy to spend some time walking the beach, a much deserved and needed distraction.

I mean, really - is this not gorgeous?!

Dinner tonight was margaritas, chips and salsa in our cozy cockpit by candlelight with our wind generator happily whirring away on the aft deck.  The sunsets continue to surprise us and once again we find ourselves happily at home on Moonshadow and ready for another adventurous day ahead.

Thoughts of Home and More

So I posted blog last night and almost got out of bed to change what I said.  The reality of what was going on the past few days has much less to do with Christmas presents than being away from my kids this Christmas.  So that's the TRUTH.  Some times I find myself writing what I think I should say for the readers benefit but today I just wanted to put it out there how things are.  So here's to my boys.  They're the best, you know.  I've got the proud mother syndrome going on strong. 

As for today - geesh, I didn't take one picture and am really ready to move on.  When we pulled in here I thought I would never ever feel like moving again.  The power of passing time.  But it's time to go.  The days have become a bit monotonous with projects and repairs the order of the day.  First thing this morning, the holding tank for the heads overflowed.  Just imagine - sewer backup at anchor.  Yup, beautiful!  Poor Rob takes the brunt of almost every problem around here.  I feel him and blog to you all and he figures out how to deal with an overfull holding tank.  Guess I have no reason to be blue, eh?!  Pictures just didn't seem like the right way to go on that one . . .

I did manage to get about 15 packages out this morning at the post office, my big accomplishment of the day.   Made me feel more Christmas-y.  And we had lunch at the Southport Raw Bar today with our little credit.  They have an outdoor grill going each weekday and they put out some MEAN grilled veggies - I had a double order ($4 - pretty awesome!).  Then we did our obligatory project day 2 mile walk to West Marine.  I did however score some goodies for myself.  I got a stecp to climb into our berth easier and a sun shower which is essentially a five gallon black plastic bag that heats up on deck during the day and then sprays out of a hose for a deck shower upon use.  (yup, my new version of "goodies")  We can just hang it in the regular shower stall on board and it should definitely be a help when we haven't run the engine and have no hot water from now on.  The final project of the day was the biggie that needs to be finished tomorrow so we can head out Thursday.  We're installing a wind generator and it's a nightmare of poles/fittings/screws/mounting plates and inadequate instructions.  Wish us luck tomorrow!  Today's start didn't go so well . . .

Since not much is going on, I thought I might try something a bit different today.  I LOVE the sunrises and sunsets.  I MISS my boys.  I LOVE meeting new people.  I MISS my familiar friends.  I LOVE the sway of the water and the quiet at night.  I MISS yoga and exercise!  I LOVE having to make do with less than usual of just about everything from food items to lighting in the cabins to power supply but I really do MISS hot water for dishes and showers.  I LOVE overcoming the fears and uncertainties.  I MISS dragonboating, gospel choir, book club.  I DON'T MISS docking in Ashley Marina!  Ha!   I LOVE seeing all the Christmas lights from the water view.  I MISS my usual Christmas tree and holiday rituals.  I LOVE writing this silly thing and hearing from you!

What Day Is It?!

You can imagine that with all of the preparations and then the new-ness of this adventure how every day details could get away from us, right?  Well, we were riding some kind of crazy wave trying to get ready to push off the dock and "get outta dodge".  If you've been reading these blogs, you know that we haven't been bored to date either.  Honestly, I haven't read more than a couple pages at a time in a book since we took off - and that's only when I climb in bed.  So when Kev and Judith left town and we found ourselves needing to stay put for at least a few more days to resolve maintenance issues and wait out weather, I guess things settled down enough for me to pay attention to the DATE!

We're all here because we're not all there - Had to Laugh!

Apparently while we've been whirling out of control, the world has continued to turn and Christmas is still happening . . . in a WEEK!   Rob has been busy trying to find the elusive air leak in the fuel system for days and I've found myself at a total loss on how to create my kind of Christmas while floating in an unfamiliar place with no real mode of transportation!  This sent me into a seasonal funk and I found myself homesick?!  Now where did that come from?  I called my mom and my sons to shake off some of the blues and worked on making my little Christmas goodies the rest of the night.  I even turned on my first Christmas music of the year - geesh, how have I missed all this?!

We did manage to find our way to solid ground and walked several miles to get to the West Marine to get Rob's supplies and then wandered back to the dinghy dock where we used our $10 dinghy docking fee credit for a beer.   Cute place, this raw bar, with a bartender with a severe mohawk and a great attitude.  Since they charge for docking the dinghy but then give you credit at the restaurant, I think we'll be regulars . . . today it was boiled shrimp. 

Realizing I really have one day to get stuff in the mail got me moving today and we headed out after Rob FINALLY found the source of that darn leak (a cracked compression fitting on the back of the fuel tube in one of the tanks - don't I sound like I'm learning this stuff?!)  So I found a post office and worked my way through my "list" until I was satisfied that I could make a respectable showing.


Side note - there are lots of coconuts floating in the water around here and we picked one out of the river today.  I plan on cracking this beauty open tomorrow and seeing if it's edible.  Kinda wonder with it floating in likely polluted salt water but have to try!  Don't you love fresh coconut?

So back to reality - it's been really a very average two days.  Almost wouldn't know we're in Fort Lauderdale any more because we've been so studious here.  I'm looking forward to getting past some of these projects and exploring new frontiers again.  The next projected jaunt is a day sail to Coconut Grove on Thursday.  We'll surely keep you posted!

What would life be without those we can call friends?

 Anyone who's reading this probably knows how essential relationships are in my life.  The hardest part of this adventure to me was leaving my family and dear friends behind.  So it was especially encouraging to me to find how social this cruising community is.  I've mentioned Kev and Judith before - having met them originally in Jeckyl Island, then we happening upon them on the beach at Cumberland and then further mooring next to them at Fernandina and riding out the storm, then sailing to Lauderdale tandem . . . so, yeah, I've mentioned them.  I don't know if it's possible to express how really GREAT it is to find new friends when embarking on such a new and uncertain adventure - but to me, it's priceless!

Getting to know Kev and Judith over the past week (really, just a week?!) has been a real joy.  Judith and I manage to keep a lively conversation going continually and Rob and Kev could talk engines and sailing without falling behind.  Plus, these two are un-endingly generous and have made our transition into cruising so much easier.  Just relating fears and sharing stories has helped "keep the demons away".





Today began with Kev meeting us at his daughter in law's father's boat in a nearby marina where they arranged for us to have docking privileges as well as showers/laundry and the like.  How great is that?  On top of that, he took us to the new West Marine here which is warehouse sized - and was like a candy store for he and Rob.  Since we had no idea exactly what this life would require, we found ourselves needing a few more necessities (like a dinghy lock) as well as a few repair parts so it was great to be able to check some things off the list.

Of course getting to a West Marine meant that Rob was busy the entire afternoon doing projects - mostly replacing the starter, which he did in fine style!  Never fear the projects will end and Rob will be bored . . . the fuel line appears to need to be replaced and several other projects have been identified in the mean time!  I worked on a few Christmas projects and caught up on finance and other exciting details.

The plan for the evening had us meeting Kev and Judith at their marina down the New River and having dinner in Las Olas before their departure tomorrow for the holidays and points beyond.  We left at 5 and puttered down the ICW to the New River at a casual pace.  What fun it was!  The houses along the canal do an amazing job with Christmas decorations and it was floating entertainment.  Everything from extremely tacky to extravagant elegance were the norm and we couldn't get enough of it all.

We arrived after only 35 minutes and headed out on foot down the boardwalk to Las Olas.  What a beautiful town this is!  The riverfront is so well planned and neatly kept and it seems you could stay occupied easily with all there is to do as you progress down the canal.  Everything from art to museums to great bars and restaurants were everywhere.  

We found our way into downtown Las Olas and had a delicious dinner at Caffe Europa, a quite authentic Italian eatery where I swear every one of the wait staff had to be related!  It was a nice atmosphere with great food and good service - couldn't be beat!  Eggplant Parm always does the trick for me and Judith and I polished off the Fruti de Corsa that was the most delicious treat with some kind of shortbread, custard and fresh currants and berries on top sprinkled with fine sugar.  OOOOHHH!

While at dinner, we saw a pimped out "Santa mobile" parade of sorts head down Las Olas Blvd to the cheers and applause of all in the restaurant.  Then the random Santa sightings began.   Apparently their was a "Santa Mob" being carried out and we were right in the throws of it!  Such fun - Santa, Elves and Helpers were everywhere . . . and I never knew they partied so hard at the North Pole!  Such fun and such spontaneity!  Life is so grand!

Kev and Judith had an early flight in the morning so we didn't take too much time before heading back to their boat.  We took showers at their marina facilities and then exchanged contact info and promised not to lose touch.  Of course you never know when you meet folks along life's journey where the winds will take you.  But I can say that Kev and Judith made our first week of cruising more fun, comfortable, reassuring and pleasant with memories that we'll never forget and we hope it's a friendship that will last for years to come!  Here's to all the friends in my life . . .
I love you all!

STRANDED!

Yesterday was one of those days!  We woke up casually without any real plan other than finding our way around this anchorage and the surrounding area.  Did the morning routine, a few odd projects/cleaning and headed out in the dinghy to go exploring.

Just a few of the "small boats" along the canal.

I decided it was high time I learned to be independent on the dinghy so I took charge and got us started (first pull - YEAH!) and off we went.  Lake Sylvia is a really beautiful anchorage in a cove with lots of gorgeous houses on canals all around.  To get to a landing isn't such an easy task, however.  Lots of anchorages are connected with a marina that offers services - a dinghy dock/showers/laundry/restrooms - for a small fee.  There is no such thing for Lake Sylvia.  To get to a land based dock, you have to dinghy out of the canals, cross the ICW (intercoastal waterway), go to the end of another canal and pay a restaurant there $10 to leave your dinghy.  The one plus - they give you $10 worth of drink coupons in return . . . sounds good enough!

Get by with a little help from my friend

So that all sounds fine and good and although I almost knocked us out revving the engine instead of slowing it before ducking under a REALLY low canal bridge, we recovered and crossed the ICW.  That's about the time the engine quite.  Yup.  No warning, no nothing . . . just nothing.  And we were adrift.  Rob grabbed the oars, actually excited to do a little rowing and we headed back to the ICW to a fuel dock on the corner of the canal.  They were not exactly what I would call helpful but we were able to tie up long enough for Rob to check the engine out.  That didn't help unfortunately and we ended up getting a tow from another dinghy from Lake Sylvia who pulled in the dock to fill water and fuel reserves.  Of course this meant we now had a new friend!  Ha, this sailing community is amazing.

So we're safely back aboard Moonshadow and Rob does some work on the dinghy, adds fuel conditioner, etc and she gets started again.  Still determined to put our feet on solid ground and maybe burn a few calories, we headed out once again.  This time after we crossed the ICW, we got about half way down the canal to the restaurant to find the whole canal blocked with crime tape.  LAUDERDALE VICE!!!!  Such excitement - and how bizarre - they found a Mercedes convertible that had been run down the boat ramp!  Yikes . . . and I guess I should mention there were bodies inside.  We heard reports of two, and then one in the trunk . . . but I never did check the news to find out the story.  Anyway - can this be possible!?  It was just like watching a TV crime show!  The helicopters were there for hours and the canal was closed the rest of the day.

Las Olas Beach Access

Not to be deterred, we headed a different direction out of the Lake and headed up the ICW to Las Olas mooring field and marina.  We "just stopped and asked directions" (thanks, Captain Ron!).  The two sailors aboard "Slick" gave us the entry code to Las Olas and we docked on the dinghy dock ready to rock!  So, there is absolutely nothing at Las Olas other than the beach or a 1/2 mile walk to a bus station to get to points afar.  We walked the beach a bit, walked over the ICW bridge and back and headed back to Moonshadow before the sun was fully set. 

Moonshadow at sunset - come on, admit you're jealous now!

Jeff and Elise - our towing buds.

Back aboard Moonshadow, our towing friend Jeff and his wife Elise came by on the their dinghy and we thanked them with wine at sundown.  They are a delightful couple and we hope to run into them as we move further south in the next week or so.  They gave us some good tips on making the trip to Key West and we had a few laughs.  All in all a somewhat docile day but you know the saying . . . a day at anchorage is better than a day at work!  Is that how it goes?  Until next time . . .

Life at Sea

Honestly, my memory isn't that good any more and some times it's hard to remember what I cooked last night not to mention recall the last three days!  And what a "three days" it has been!

Fernandina mill behind boats at anchor.

The weather had been so bad in Amelia and didn't look like it was going to shift until Wednesday - so when Tuesday started looking good, we jumped on it pretty quick.  Kev and Judith woke up to find that their dinghy motor had recovered itself overnight and made it back to their boat with no fanfare.  Funny, but we never even thought to check it again before we camped out, go figure!  Anyway, we started making preparations to head out at the change of tide at 1030.  Off to the fuel dock, filling the water tanks, pumping out the holding tanks, etc. While all of that progressed, Judith and I headed back into town for a jaunt to the post office, a quick walk and hopefully a chance to buy two paintings I had seen the day before at an antique shop.  Much to my chagrin, the pecan sticky bun place AND the antique store were both closed ("island time", you know!) so I struck out on all of my "fun-ness" but the walk felt good nonetheless.

The weather did look better and we pushed off looking forward to a good day of sailing.  Oh - not so

Fort at Fernandina

fast, my faithful ones!  You guessed it . . . the seas were, let's say in the 8-10 foot range and although the winds were favorable, the waves were NOT and the ride was another roller coaster adventure.  It'samazing how much the sails help to stabilize you in these conditions compared to not having them raised, but OMG, I'm glad we had our "little pills"!  Bonine is the drug of the day and we faithfully took them before we headed out - good move!

About all we could do was navigate, sleep and stare for the next 24 hours - okay, let's be honest, about 48 hours - but that's getting ahead of myself! ( I can't even tell you how many moments I spent wondering how I was going to break it to Rob that I didn't want to do this any more, but let's keep that between you and I for now.)  So . . . we're talking big seas, the motor clumping along (the starter was giving fits before we left and we couldn't chance it not restarting so we left the engine run at low rpm's the entire trip . . . lovely), the sails whipping with winds shifts and wave action . . . getting the picture?!


It wasn't entirely bad.  Rob and I have fallen into a nice rhythm.  We talk nice, encourage and generally sooth each other and that in itself is like a golden pearl AND after you get used to the wave action, it is possible to fall into it.  We took turns napping throughout the day and night and even had a few moments of relative peace and calm as conditions came and went.  After the first 24 hours, we conferred with Viagem and we both were strongly considering putting in before the day ended.  Unfortunately, that meant doing so after dark because there were no navigable inlets between our position and Fort Pierce which was too far to make during daylight.  Anyone who's heard our previous sailing stories knows of our adventure entering an inlet at night but, needless to say, it wasn't something I was excited about repeating. The plan was to see how the day progressed and go from there.  Remember, sailing is NOT a planned sport . . . NO SCHEDULES ALLOWED!

As the inlet approached, a funny thing happened.  Okay, well it's funny to me at least.  I didn't want to go in.  I felt like I wanted to get this trip OVER WITH and if going in meant I had to come back OUT . . . well, it just didn't appeal.  Ha, nice attitude for less than a week into this!  I did manage to relay this thought without sounding like a quitter however and was actually met with similar viewpoints from all concerned.  Why go in under less than optimum conditions, try to get settled at an anchorage in the dark, wind down, TRY to sleep after all this, wake up and head out again?  NAW.  NOPE.  NOT REALLY.  So we kept on.

Back a few hours now . . . the sun setting is always an amazing thing no matter where you are but at sea it seems to take on a whole new splendor.  Between the heavy seas and sea salt spray everywhere, it was near impossible to capture any of it on camera but, boy, do I wish I could have.  Along with being beautiful, however, the sun setting means another level of awareness that requires some real effort offshore.  With our full enclosure of glass and eisenglass all around, any light from equipment in the cockpit reflects and made it really hard to tell if it was coming from in or out of the boat.  And after 32 hours on the water already, it just meant you had to be that much more alert.   BUT, we were all in for another 14 hours of darkness and we settled in and the time and distance passed . . .

We made it!  And, look, it's warm!

And then the sun rose!  We made it another night on the water and although we weren't as far along as we had hoped, we were nearing our destination.  Already the air was warmer even if the seas were still throwing us from hell to breakfast.  The whole of the previous 12 hours had us following the Florida coast within 2 miles to avoid the opposing gulf stream current so we had the shoreline to watch as we moved along.  We finally made the inlet at almost exactly 48 hours from our departure and were thrilled to see the 17th Street Causeway bridge rise just in time for us to pass under and make it to our anchorage within 1/2 hour of making the cut!  We safely entered Lake Sylvia anchorage, dropped anchor and let out a BIG SIGH!!!

Had a computer crash and lost the rest of what I had for you . . . but did realize there's one thing you must hear of!  Shortly after regaining our collective composure, celebrating with some nachos and beer and generally recovering, we saw the strangest sight!  A man with a jet pack came buzzing by the boat looking like something out of the Jetsons!  No kidding, you see the craziest things.  Apparently, this is something you can pay to do (go figure!).   It was almost surreal having this thing show up just as we were finally feeling human to a degree!  Ha!  Anyway, this guy buzzed around the anchorage for a few hours.  What a kick!

We did manage much needed showers and general clean up and re-settling and then met up with Rob's broker friends at a close by restaurant for conch chowder and a fish sandwich.  We enjoyed the Christmas lights on all of the fancy houses along the canals on our dinghy ride home and then fell into a hard and fast - and much deserved - sleep!

I Think I'm Getting Used to This!

Would someone tell me how yesterday got away from me?  The weather was just crazy here.  Gale force winds the entire day.  We were swinging around on our mooring like a remote control car out of control!  Being on a boat in bad weather is really quite cozy.  There's nowhere to go and somehow each little thing I found to do had some degree of joy in it. 

To start with, I tried the "let's read in bed" deal which I could get really used to.  Reading when I go to bed at night puts me to sleep so fast I seem to never get through a book.  So reading when I wake is extra fun - I actually finish chapters!  I finished The Likeness, an interesting mystery lent by Bobbi Rose and started on my latest acquisition, An Embarrassment of Mangoes, a sailing adventure which looks like it's going to be fun. 

The first "joy" project for yesterday was pulling out what I brought in the way of Christmas decorations and doing what I could to liven Moonshadow up for the holidays.  I was disappointed to learn that Christmas lights don't work with our power system (sad face) but I managed to do a little creative work and came up with a respectable Christmas showing nonetheless. Afterward I moved into playing around with some other Christmas projects I've been working on.  Ho Ho Ho!
 
A little cleaning, some organizing . . . general moving from point A to B around the boat managed to fill my day.  We had invited our new friends and mooring neighbors, Kev and Judith to dinner so I busied myself cooking which is always a favorite pasttime of mine.  South African Sweet Potato Stew was smelling good through the afternoon.  When the weather was SO bad that they couldn't get to the boat, we rescheduled for tonight and I made yet another entire meal so the stew would still be the plan for our get together.  Guess it's good I like to cook!

So today dawned with worse weather than we had yesterday.  Same wind with added rain.  Lovely!  The winds weren't quite as bad so we loaded up our bags and jumped aboard the dinghy to venture ashore.  After a much needed and appreciated hot shower, we headed into town to find a fuel filter to solve the power issue we'd been having.  We walked a couple miles in the rain and then treated ourselves to some Mexican for lunch to celebrate.

In the Fernandina Beach Antique Market

We hung around at the restaurant long enough that our friends ended up joining us and we then ventured out further finding some fun shops along the way.  The favorite was a fun antique market where we found some great carved teak wine goblets for happy hours to come.


After returning to the boat I began the final preparations for dinner while Rob worked on the fuel filter.  It didn't go as easily as hoped but in the end it worked and problem is solved and we're full speed ahead!

The big happening for the day was when Kev and Judith were coming via dinghy from their boat about 100 yards upriver.  Just as they let go of their boat, their dinghy motor died and the took off in the fast moving tide.  It was unbelievably fortunate that Rob happened to be on deck because it was dark and they were totally powerless, had no radio or cell phones and were not able to row against the tide.  Rob (my quick thinker in a pinch!) threw the life line with strobe light activated and managed to work with them to get them safely hauled in to our boat.  Lots of commotion, excitement and happiness made for a festive meal together aboard Moonshadow.  And as I write this, the decision has been made that there is no safe way to return our neighbors to Viagem without a motor and it's a sleepover on Moonshadow.  Guess it's time to pull out the extra pillows!  Ah, the life of living one moment to the next!

So What Day of our Journey Is This?

Gosh, we're not even a week into this and I don't know the day, the date or most times the TIME!  Ha!  What a switch from our lives of almost 30 years of keeping up with more details than were realistic . . . nor possible!  I thought we were going to take our time heading out this morning.  We only had about an hour to go to arrive in Fernandina Beach, our next anchorage of choice as we wait for better weather to arrive.

Rob started in with his usual puttering around the boat and decided to take in some of the slack on the anchor line and . . . low and behold! . . . he pulled the whole thing up and we were off WELL before we had planned or even before we were ready.  All of a sudden I was watching the surrounding area and realized we were sliding into the shore - definitely not at anchor any longer!  I started the engines and we were off!!!  Oh, to heck with plans anyway!!  

The winds were blustery but it wasn't really bad weather yet and we did have the tide with us so we made it to the mooring field at Fernandina Beach in just over an hour.  Our engine has been having trouble and it worsened as we made our way; we were definitely glad to see the marina come into view.  Rob and I have never used a mooring buoy before so another new experience has been conquered.  I must say, we're even getting good at negotiating these things together!  Who would have guessed?!

We hopped in the dinghy with our shower supplies and headed to the marina to check in and get a hot  much anticipated shower.  That done, we enjoyed wandering around town and finding a few supplies we needed.  We had some luck with our engine analysis and the problem appears to be nearly fixed - all good news. Rob and I have been to Amelia several times and it's still just as cute as ever.  It should be a good couple days if the weather clears enough to make it into town again tomorrow.  Gale force winds and rain are tomorrow's forecast and the temps have dropped as well!

Tonight we enjoyed a GREAT meal of freshly caught St. Mary's shrimp and grits with Kev and Judith aboard their 38' Island Packet named Viagem (Voyage, in Portuguese).  It's so great when you just "click" with new acquaintances which is how we feel in this case.  Lots of good food and laughs and we managed to fight our way back to Moonshadow in the midst of some nasty wind and waves.  Glad to be "home" safe and cozy in our floating adventure.